Reflections on Greeks & Restaurants: Lessons in Life and Business
Reflections on Greeks & Restaurants:
Lessons in Life and Business
by Harry Mark Petrakis
Published in The National Herald, December 15, 2018
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I am excited that The National Herald has given Hellenic Genealogy Geek the right to reprint articles that may be of interest to our group.
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Growing up in my father’s
parish on Chicago’s South Side,
I recall a disproportionate number of his parishioners owning
restaurants, cafeterias and
lunchrooms. My parents, siblings, and I often ate in them.
They had distinctively American
names such as Majestic, Cosmopolitan, New World but there
were also homages to Greece
such as Acropolis and
Parthenon.
There was an early period
when the quality of meals in
Greek restaurants was mocked.
The other day I wandered in
where angels fear to tread. I
mean the greasy spoon where
hungry gents are fed, Where
spuds is spuds, and ham is ham
what am.
And the pork in the chicken
salad is honest-to-goodness
lamb.
As the quality of food improved, the mocking ceased.
As I grew older I would be
asked by friends of other ethnicities why so many Greeks
chose the restaurant business.
There may be several explanations but I’ll share one.
At the beginning of the last
century, coal mines flourished
in the United States in Utah and
Colorado and miners were
needed. Labor agents traveled
to Greece as well as other countries to conscript young men
from the villages to work in the
mines. The men often signed
punitive labor contracts that indentured them for years, but
there wasn’t any future for them
if they remained in the villages.
In the mining communities,
the men had to cook for themselves. Some of them proved
more skilled at preparing food and since cooking was easier
and less dangerous than mining,
they started short order lunchrooms in abandoned shacks and
empty freight cars.
As men left the coalfields and
moved to cities to open restaurants, they brought relatives
from Greece to work with them.
Often starting as dishwashers,
the newcomers eventually
opened cafes and restaurants of
their own. Eateries operated by
Greeks proliferated across the
country.
There was also an aura of inevitable success associated with
Greeks and restaurants. I remember a saying from my boyhood “that all a Greek had to
do to make money in a restaurant was stand by the cash register.” That myth of inevitable
success motivated a good friend
of mine, Charley and I to enter
the restaurant business.
Most restaurants we inspected were too expensive for
our limited funds until we found
a small four-table, eight-stool
diner in a factory district and
adjoining the Illinois Central
railroad yards.
The wooden lunchroom sign
hanging above the front door,
paint peeled away, which had
been, Art’s Lunch now read “A
t ’s Lu ch.”
There had been four owners
since Art’s opened in the early1920s, but apparently none of
them had any inclination or the
money to repair or replace the
sign. So, until the lunchroom’s
closing which took place during
our ownership, the sign remained “A t’s Luch.”
In addition to tables and
stools, the dining area held a
large metal coffee urn on a
counter that brewed fresh coffee
all day long. There was a fivetier pie case with glass so dingy
one couldn’t distinguish between pumpkin and lemon
cream pie. On one wall was a
large watercolor painting, an
early customer had made of Art,
a florid-cheeked man resembling Jackie Gleason.
The kitchen of the restaurant
seemed to belong in an earlier
century. There was an old eightdoor wooden icebox with separate compartments for chunks
of ice. One of the doors had a
broken lock that no one bothered to fix, so it hung uselessly
on one hinge.
There was also a massive
coal-burning iron stove that had
to be supplied with coal day and
night.
The custodian of the kitchen,
diligently maintaining the icebox and stove, scouring the pots
and washing the dishes was
George, an age-battered black
man who, at the age of sixteen,
served as a bugler in the Spanish-American War.
George slept on a cot in an
alcove back of the kitchen. He
spoke of his responsibility tending the kitchen as if it were an
estate he had been bequeathed
and had to maintain.
Our chef was named Gay,
when gay still meant “merry.”
Belying his name, Gay was morose and unsmiling. He prepared breakfast, lunch and dinner with the stub of a dead cigar
clenched between his teeth.
We also employed a solitary
waitress whose name was
Maude, who had begun working
in restaurants as a girl of twelve,
washing dishes in a diner in Mobile, Alabama, Maude was quick
and tough, taking the teasing
from truckers and railroad
workers and robustly ribbing
them back.
For the following year, struggling to stay afloat, Charley and
I tottered between catastrophe
and disaster. Our inexperience in buying meat and produce,
our ignorance on how to utilize
leftovers and, finally, our inability to set a menu suitable for
factory and railroad yard trade
were burdens we couldn’t overcome.
We tried desperately to survive. Jumping the gun on McDonald’s and Burger King, we
devised an item we called
“Burger-in-a-Basket.” That consisted of a small wicker basket
holding a large patty burger, a
generous serving of french fries
and a soft drink for a little less
than a dollar. The burgers sold
splendidly and we rejoiced
about that small triumph, until
we figured we were losing 40
cents on every burger we sold.
Desperate times called for
desperate measures. A renegade
meat salesman named Sam
Anastis would call on us to buy
his meat, which we vowed was
from animals that had died a
natural death. We had always
scorned his product until he offered us a crate of turkeys at 15
cents a pound. Fears of having
to shut down unbalanced us. We
threw caution to the wind and
bought the crate of turkeys. Gay
boiled them for a day and most
of the night. When customers
complained about the noxious
odor, we told them a gas main
had broken.
Although the week we served
the turkeys, altering the daily
menu to encompass ”roast
young tom turkey,” “turkey alaking, then “chicken croquettes,”
the restaurant showed its first
profit, anxiety that we might
poison someone, clouded our
pleasure.
What finally became clear
was that the restaurant could
barely profit one of us instead
of two. My partner and I flipped
a coin and I lost. Charley was
able to escape, while I remained
in bondage.
Regretfully, I let Gay and
Maude go and brought in my
wife, Diana, to help. I amended
the menu to half a dozen items,
soups and sandwiches and our
“Burger in a Basket” after reducing the burgers to half the original amount of ground beef.
The business languished.
Hours passed with customers
coming in only for coffee, for
which we had to walk as much
as if we were serving a full meal.
After closing, my wife and I
crossed the long overpass at
12th Street, and rode the South
Shore train to Kenwood, so cold
and exhausted we had barely
enough energy to climb the
stairs to our second-floor studio
apartment.
At the end of that first year,
in despair I sold the restaurant
to another Greek at a fire sale
price of $250 dollars He lasted
a week and then walked out,
leaving beans and potatoes on
the steam table.
Weary and feeling hopeless
about finding another buyer, I
sold the tables, chairs, dishes
and silverware for a pittance. I
vowed to find George another
position. Then I abandoned Art’s
Lunch which had long before
abandoned me.
Now, decades later, recalling
that painful interlude in our
lives, I attempt to take what
consolation I can in the life
lessons learned.
The most significant lesson
among the many the lunchroom
experience taught me was that
I would never again fail to appreciate and acknowledge the
heroic labor, patience, and skill
even Greeks needed to survive
in the restaurant business.
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