The Natural History of the Greek American Sandwich
THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE GREEK AMERICAN SANDWICH
By Steve Frangos
Published in The National Herald, April 9, 2005
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I am excited that The National Herald has given Hellenic Genealogy Geek the right to reprint articles that may be of interest to our group.
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Throughout North America, the Gyro sandwich is associated
universally with Greeks. For a product
which did not exist until the late 1960’s, it’s as easy to locate today as the
venerable American hot dog. At Hellenic
festivals all across the country, Greek Americans have learned to have a
separate serving line for this extremely popular item.
The enduring mystery is, where did the Gyro come from? It was not a sandwich brought with the
1880-1920 wave of Greek immigrants to America.
So who created or brought this sandwich to our shores? Yet the larger question of the mysterious
origins of the Gyro does not end there.
GREEK HOT DOG
Except for local communities, few today recall that, long
before the Gyro, there was another kind of fast food sandwich associated with
Greeks. Since at least the 1920’s, and
perhaps long before, variations of the Greek Hot Dog have been sold around the
country. Many an American diner and/or
restaurant chain still sell Greek Hot Dogs.
The popularity of the Greek Hot Dog, far from a local delicacy, has – if
we are to believe the Internet – reached all the way to Singapore, where local
restaurants proudly offer Greek Hot Dogs on their menus.
For all those who would but look, documentation abounds for
the existence of the Greek Hot Dog.
True, there is little agreement about its origins or precise recipe, but
as we shall see, in large measure, the same can be said for the Gyro.
Published sources, community memories and seemingly endless
variations on the recipe can be noted.
Spiced meat is the central theme of both the Greek Hot Dog and the
Gyro. How did one sandwich nearly fade
from popular consciousness, while another has become internationally identified
with Greeks?
VARIATION OF A CULINARY THEME
Folklorists and food historians have long recognized that a
single sandwich can have regional variations on a common culinary theme. As a case in point, “the modern American
submarine sandwich, sub, hero, wedge, hoagie, grinder, Italian sandwich, Po’Boy,
torpedo, zeppelin… and their heated cousins, the Philly cheese steak, Chicago
Italian, beef sandwiches, Binghamton, New York speedies” are all essentially
the same “overstuffed meat, cheese and vegetable oblong shaped sandwiched
between Italian or French bread (www.foodtimeline.org).” The same variation-on-a-theme pattern applies
for the Greek Hot Dog.
The Greek Hot Dog is a standard hotdog in a bun served with
a spicy, sometimes semisweet, topping.
The progression of variants within the broader field of Greek Hot Dogs
follows a regional dispersal (as they do for other sandwiches). Since no agreement exists on where this
sandwich was developed however (and there probably never was one single
location), we will simply begin by discussing what seem to be the two polar
points of the Greek Hot Dog: the Coney
Island and the Greek Chili.
The Coney Island and Cincinnati Greek Chili variants on the
Greek Hot Dog seem linked, but let’s take the stories and recipes about these
two sandwiches and break them down slowly.
Many sources point to a myth of origin for the Coney Island
version of the Greek Hot Dog. As the
story goes, some unknown Greek immigrant working at a hotdog stand in the Coney
Island Amusement Park wanted to increase his lackluster business. This Greek innovator concluded that what
would improve the regular hotdog, and so make it sell better, was to change its
toppings. Since this is a fast-food
sandwich, and not chemistry, the following recipes can only be understood as
variations on a theme.
The common ingredients for the Coney Island, Greek Hot Dog,
Greek Hot Sauce, Greek-style Chili, and all the rest is hot dogs, chili,
cheese, onions and, at times pasta.
Obviously, the new taste, and so great secret of the Greek Hot Dog and
its variants, is in the exact ingredients which make up this spicy meal on a
bun.
In the move to Cincinnati, which many say the Coney Island
sandwich made, there was yet another innovation. The “Coney” stayed as a hotdog with the “Greek
sauce,” or Greek-style chili, served on top.
The new variant saw this sandwich served with additional layers. This layering became known, depending on the
restaurant, diner or region, as the “two-way,” “three-way,” “four-way,” and “five-way.” The “two-way is a sandwich served on a bed of
spaghetti, with oyster crackers on the side.
A “three-way” is chilidog topped with an extra large serving of shredded
cheddar cheese. The “four-way” and “five-way”
are further elaborations with the hotdog, chili and pasta still the core group,
but with added optional beans, chickpeas and/or additional seasonings/spices.
With so much innate variation cited, “core recipes” can be
difficult to provide. Having said that,
allow me to offer one basic Greek Hot Dog Sauce receipt, and then one of the
most elaborate expressions of the Cincinnati version of Greek chili
available. These formulas alone should
provide some idea of how extreme the differences from one serving of this
sandwich can be from another.
GREEK HOT DOG SAUCE
2 green peppers
1 celery stalk
2 medium onions
2 teaspoons celery salt
3 tablespoons paprika
1 box chili powder
3 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons black pepper
Brown two pounds of hamburger in oil. Add two quarts water and 2 teaspoons
pepper. Stir in remaining ingredients
and cook for 4 hours (c.f., www.cooks.com).
For those who have grown up with these sorts of sauces, this
particular recipe leaves out cocoa.
Cocoa is the one ingredient that unquestionably separates Greek chili
from nearly all Texas styles of chili.
It is well worth pointing out that traditional Mexican mole sauces are a
mixture of various chilies with cocoa and chocolate. As a quick point of interest, I should note
that there are even Texas-style Greek Sauces.
No less a source than the Associated Press published an
explicitly Cincinnati-style five-way Greek chili recipe which was seen in
newspapers throughout the country.
GREEK CHILI
12 ounces lean ground meat
½ cup chopped onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 taspoons dried oregano leaves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon dried mint leaves
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa
28-ounces can of diced tomatoes, undrained
18-ounce can of chickpeas, or 1.5 cups cooked dry-packaged
chickpeas, rinsed, drained (see note below)
15-ounces can of dark red kidney beans, or 1 cup, cooked
dry-packaged, dark red kidney beans, rinsed, drained (see note below)
2 teaspoons honey
5-8 cups cooked macaroni, warm
Optional garnish:
sliced green onions and tops, crumbled feta cheese, sliced Greek olives,
as desired
Saute ground beef, onion and garlic in large saucepan until
ground beef is browned, about 5 minutes;
add spices, herbs and cocoa and cook 1-2 minutes longer. Stir in tomatoes, beans and honey; heat to
boiling. Reduce heat and simmer, covered,
15 minutes; uncover and simmer until thickened, about 15 minutes. Spoon chili over macaroni in bowls; garnish
with green onions, feta cheese and olives, as desired. Makes 8 servings (about 1 cup chili and 2/3
cup macaroni each. NOTE: Any canned or dry-packaged bean variety man
be substituted for those listed here.
While the Coney Island sandwich is served at hotdog stands
around the nation, Greek-style Chili was picked up by fast-food restaurant
chains such as Skyline and Gold Star.
Point of fact: Greek Coney Island
Sauce, Greek Hot Dog Sauce, or variants are certainly not limited to the
Cincinnati area. On the Internet, in
cookbooks and elsewhere, one can easily find recipes for, say, the “Detroit
Greek Coney Island Sauce,” or other variants.
As Greek-owned candy stores once lined the main streets of
major cities and small towns all across North America, so too did the small
diner, restaurant and hotdog stand. Just
as Greek immigrants changed the ice cream and confectionary business with
innovations such as the Dove Bar, the turtle, or the invention of soft ice
cream and frozen custard by Tom Carvel (Carvelas, 1906-1990), so too have Greek
immigrants creatively altered American culinary tastes in other realms.
Having said all that, many Greek American families would
still contest the history and recipes I have provided. Other traditions, recipes and historical
events – drawn from their region of the country and personal family histories –
could well have been cited in this account.
Still, as a case study in this field of shared Greek American history,
let me cite the history of just one Greek immigrant and his involvement with
Greek-style chili
DIXIE CHILI
Nicholas D. Sarakatsannis, a young Greek immigrant, arrived
in Cincinnati, Ohio in 1917. Having
already worked a number of jo bs in New Hampshire, Sarakatsannis was looking
for something new. Restless, the young
Greek moved through various sall towns in Ohio, working alternately as a cand
maker or owner/operator of a Coney Island stand. In 1928, Sarakatsannis was married and back
in Cincinnati, this time working for another Greek at the Empress Chili Parlor. Knowing he could come up with a better chili
recipe. Sarakatsannis moved to Newport,
Kentucky. Once there, Sarakatsannis
opened the Dixie Chili Parlor in an 8 x 30 foot room just north of Eighth
Street. Dixie Chili proved to be an
instant success.
While Sarakatsannis only made eight gallons of chili on his
first day, this family-owned company now makes some 150 gallons a day. After 74 years, the Dixie Chili is a
thriving, family-owned and operated business run by two of Nicholas
Sarakatsannis’ sons – Panny and Spiros, who bought out their brothers George
and Chris. Spiros is president of the
company. There are three company-owned
locations in the greater Cincinnati area (Newport, Erlanger, and Covington,
Kentucky), as well as a franchised restaurant in Independence, Kentucky (www.dixiechili.com).
Today, the Gyro is identified with Greeks all across
America, but years ago, and in places far outside the five boroughs of New York
City, Greek Hot Dogs and Greek-style Chili are still avidly sought-out culinary
delights. The Gyro also has a definite
history, of course, from which many have profited by, but which few really know
about.
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